The Journal

Field notes & travel guides

Practical planning guides and stories from the guides, camps and communities we work with.

Oct 21, 2026

How to Combine a Tanzania Safari with Zanzibar

Safari first, beach second: how to link the Tanzania parks with Zanzibar by air or ferry, plus visa, health and season checks.

Sep 19, 2026

Self-Drive Camping in Botswana's Parks: Who Runs the Camps, How to Book and What It Costs

How self-drive camping works in Botswana's parks: private operators run many campsites, DWNP issues permits and fees, and much of what travellers read is not official.

Sep 19, 2026

Etosha and Sossusvlei NWR Camps: How to Book, What They Cost and the Rules

How booking, gates, park fees and rules work at Namibia Wildlife Resorts camps in Etosha and Sossusvlei, with each figure traced to NWR or the Ministry and the contradictions shown.

Sep 19, 2026

SANParks Rest Camps: How to Book, What It Costs and the Rules

How booking, gate times, self-drive rules and fees work at SANParks rest camps in Kruger and Addo, with each figure traced to an official SANParks page.

Rwanda vs Uganda Gorilla Trekking: Which Should You Choose?

Rwanda's gorilla permit costs nearly double Uganda's (US$1,500 vs US$800) for a broadly comparable one-hour encounter — but the terrain, access, and crowding differ enough that the price gap isn't the only thing that should decide it.

Sep 14, 2026

Self-Drive Kruger vs a Private Reserve: What Actually Differs

Kruger's public rest camps let you self-drive on a budget; the unfenced private reserves along its border (Sabi Sand, Timbavati) add off-road tracking and night drives at a materially higher price. Here's exactly what each rule set means.

Sep 14, 2026

Best Time to Go on Safari in South Africa

South Africa's dry winter (May-Sep/Oct) is the reliable game-viewing window. Unlike Kenya or Tanzania, official health sources confine malaria risk to specific districts, not the whole country — here's exactly which ones.

Sep 14, 2026

Victoria Falls: Zambia or Zimbabwe, and When to Go

Victoria Falls' "best time" genuinely splits: peak water Feb-May vs low-water, high-visibility Aug-Dec. Zambia side vs Zimbabwe side, the KAZA UniVisa, Devil's Pool's actual season, and what official sources say about malaria.

Sep 14, 2026

Zanzibar: When to Go, Getting There and What to Know

Zanzibar's best months are June to October (September the standout), with two separate rainy seasons in between. What the official sources actually say about malaria, visa rules, getting there, and safety.

Sep 13, 2026

Visas and Entry Requirements for Safari Countries

Nine safari countries now run four different entry systems. Kenya requires an eTA before travel, Uganda an e-visa with no visa-on-arrival option, and Namibia ended visa-free entry for 33 nationalities in April 2025. South Africa’s ETA launched in August 2026 but is not yet compulsory for visa-exempt travellers.

Sep 13, 2026

Safari Safety: Wildlife, Vehicles and Camps

Park authorities require visitors to stay in vehicles except in designated areas — and the only systematic study of tourist attacks found that of 21 incidents over a decade, just one involved someone inside a vehicle. The statistically riskiest part of most safaris is not wildlife at all, but the driving.

Sep 13, 2026

Malaria on Safari: What Official Guidance Says

Malaria risk on safari is regional and seasonal. Official sources classify Uganda, Rwanda and Zambia as high risk year-round, southern African destinations as strongly seasonal, and parts of Namibia, the Kalahari and South Africa’s Cape and Eastern Cape as very low or no risk. Prophylaxis decisions belong to a travel clinic.

Sep 13, 2026

Safari Vaccinations: What the Official Sources Require

Of the nine main safari countries, only Uganda requires a yellow fever certificate from all arrivals. The other eight require one only from travellers arriving from — or in some cases transiting — a country WHO lists as having yellow fever transmission risk. Requirements are legal entry conditions and change; verify before travel.

Sep 13, 2026

Best Time to Go on Safari in Zimbabwe

Zimbabwe's best safari months are August to October, when Hwange's pumped waterholes draw enormous elephant concentrations and Mana Pools walking safaris are at their peak. Victoria Falls is at maximum flow around April and at its lowest around October and November. January and February are the months to avoid.

Sep 13, 2026

Best Time to Go on Safari in Zambia

Zambia's safari season is June to October, peaking in August to October when the bush is driest and walking safaris are at their best. Most Luangwa and Kafue camps close from around November to May. April usually brings peak flow at Victoria Falls; October and November bring the lowest.

Sep 13, 2026

Best Time to Go on Safari in Uganda

Uganda's best months are the two drier windows: June to August and December to February, when Bwindi's forest trails are least slippery and savanna game viewing in Murchison Falls and Queen Elizabeth is at its most reliable. March to May is the wettest period — harder trekking, but the lowest prices.

Sep 13, 2026

Best Time to Go on Safari in Namibia

The best time for a Namibia safari is May to October, and specifically August to October for Etosha, when every animal must come to a waterhole. April, May and September offer the best all-round combination of game and comfortable desert travel. January and February are the weakest months for wildlife.

Sep 13, 2026

Best Time to Go on Safari in Botswana

The best time for a Botswana safari is May to October, peaking in July to September, when the Okavango Delta flood is at its height and Chobe's elephants concentrate on the river. December to April is better for the Kalahari, Makgadikgadi and Nxai Pan, where the green season brings zebra, calving and predators.

Sep 13, 2026

Best Time to Go on Safari in Kenya

Kenya's best safari months are July to October, when migrating wildebeest are in the Maasai Mara and the bush is dry and open. Late January and February offer a good, much quieter second window. April and May — the long rains — are the months to avoid for general game viewing.

Sep 13, 2026

Best Time to Go on Safari in Tanzania

The best time for a Tanzania safari is the dry season, roughly June to October, when thinning grass and shrinking water sources concentrate game. Late January to February is the alternative peak, for wildebeest calving on the southern Serengeti plains. April and May — the long rains — are the weakest months for most of the country.

Sep 13, 2026

Kenya vs Tanzania for a First Safari

For a first safari of a week or less, Kenya is usually easier: shorter transfers, more varied parks and cheaper access. Tanzania suits travellers with ten days or more who want the Serengeti, Ngorongoro Crater and fewer vehicles. Cost is closer than most comparisons admit once park fees are read properly; neither is reliably cheaper.

Sep 13, 2026

Masai Mara vs Serengeti: An Honest Comparison

They are one ecosystem split by a border. Choose the Masai Mara for compact, high-density game viewing and July to October river crossings on short trips. Choose the Serengeti for scale, lower entry fees and a year-round migration. The Mara costs more per day and is more crowded; the Serengeti demands more time.

Sep 13, 2026

Serengeti vs Ngorongoro: Which Should You Choose?

Choose Ngorongoro Crater for guaranteed density in a single day: Big Five including black rhino inside roughly 260 km2. Choose the Serengeti for space, variety and the wildebeest migration across 14,763 km2. Most northern-circuit itineraries include both, because they answer different questions. Ngorongoro is one day; the Serengeti needs three.

Sep 13, 2026

Great Migration Month by Month: Where the Herds Actually Are

The Great Migration has no timetable. Herds track rainfall and grass quality, so months shift year to year. Typically: calving on the southern Serengeti and Ndutu short-grass plains December–March, Grumeti crossings May–July, Mara River crossings July–October, and a southward return November–December. Crossings are unscheduled events — budget three to four nights near a river to have a realistic chance.